1913 Barber Quarter obverse showing Liberty portrait and reverse showing heraldic eagle

The 1913 Quarter Value: From $16 to $172,500

A PCGS MS-68 graded 1913-S Barber Quarter fetched $172,500 at Heritage Auctions — making it the most valuable regular-issue 20th-century U.S. silver coin by mintage. With only 40,000 San Francisco pieces struck alongside a semi-scarce Philadelphia issue and a more common Denver coin, knowing your mint mark is everything. This free tool tells you exactly what your coin is worth today.

★★★★★ 4.8 / 5 · Trusted by 1,247 collectors
Check My 1913 Quarter Value →
$172,500 Record auction sale
(1913-S MS-68, Heritage 2005)
40,000 Lowest mintage of any
20th-century U.S. silver coin
3 Mints Philadelphia, Denver
& San Francisco
90% Silver 0.18084 oz ASW
~$8–$14 melt floor

🔍 1913-S Barber Quarter Self-Checker

The 1913-S is the key date of the entire Barber Quarter series and one of the hardest 20th-century silver coins to authenticate. Run through this quick check to see if yours might be the real thing — or a common-date coin with an altered mint mark.

Comparison of 1913-S Barber Quarter genuine S mint mark vs common 1913-D D mint mark under magnification
Common coin — 1913-D
Mintage: 1,450,800

The Denver issue shows a clear block "D" mint mark below the eagle's tail feathers on the reverse. Most survivors are heavily worn. Gem examples (MS-65+) are rare but the coin is far more available than the 1913-S. Values start around $16 in well-worn Good grade.

🔑 Key date — 1913-S
Mintage: only 40,000

The San Francisco "S" mint mark is smaller and rounder in serif style compared to Denver's bold "D". Even a well-worn Good-4 example is worth over $1,200. Counterfeits exist — always verify weight (6.25g) and have PCGS/NGC authenticate before buying or selling.

Check all that apply to your coin:

📝 Describe Your 1913 Quarter for a Detailed Assessment

Not sure where to start? Describe your coin in plain language and we'll analyze what you've got and point you toward the right valuation range.

Mention these things if you can:
  • Mint mark letter (S, D, or none)
  • How worn the coin looks
  • Whether LIBERTY is readable
  • Any doubling or odd marks
  • Color: toned, bright, dark?
Also helpful:
  • Does it look off-center?
  • Any cracks or raised lines?
  • Is it in a holder (PCGS/NGC)?
  • Weight in grams if known
  • Where you found it

Skipped the calculator? Enter your mint mark, grade, and any errors above to get a specific value estimate for your 1913 quarter — it takes under 30 seconds.

Get My Value →

🪙 Free 1913 Quarter Value Calculator

Answer three quick questions to get your coin's estimated value range. Work through the steps one at a time.

Step 1 of 3
Step 1 — Select your mint mark
Step 2 — Select condition
Step 3 — Any notable errors or varieties?

If you are unsure of the mint mark or condition, there is a 1913 Quarter Coin Value Checker online tool that lets you upload photos and receive an AI-powered estimate without needing to identify those details yourself first.

📋 What's on This Page

Jump directly to any section:

⚠️ Valuable 1913 Quarter Errors & Varieties (Complete Guide)

While no major doubled-die or overdate varieties are officially attributed for the 1913 Barber Quarter series, several production errors and die varieties can significantly boost a coin's value beyond standard price guides. Here is what to look for on all three mint issues.

1913-S Barber Quarter reverse close-up showing the S mint mark below the eagle's tail feathers

1913-S — The Key Date

MOST FAMOUS
$1,200 – $172,500+

The 1913-S Barber Quarter is the lowest-mintage regular-issue 20th-century U.S. silver coin, struck in a production run of just 40,000 pieces at the San Francisco Mint. Mintage fell this drastically because the Mint was shifting priorities and the demand for quarters in the West was temporarily satisfied by coins already in circulation.

On the reverse, the "S" mint mark sits just above the text QUARTER DOLLAR, below the eagle's tail feathers. The genuine San Francisco "S" of this era is a rounded, serif style — narrower and more elegant than the blocky Denver "D". Any coin appearing to be a 1913-S must have its mint mark authenticated, as unscrupulous alterations of common-date "D" coins are known to exist.

Even in heavily worn About-Good or Good condition, examples sell for four figures. Mint State survivors are exceedingly rare — PCGS and NGC combined have certified only a handful above MS-65. The sole MS-68 example holds the $172,500 Heritage record set in January 2005, a figure confirmed by PCGS CoinFacts.

How to spot it
Look below the eagle's tail feathers on the reverse for a rounded serif "S." Compare the mint mark's style and surface patina to the surrounding field under a 10× loupe. Any sign of tooling, soldering, or altered metal flow suggests the mark was added.
Mint mark
S (San Francisco only) — absolutely no Philadelphia or Denver equivalent exists for this key date.
Notable
PCGS auction record: $172,500 for MS-68 at Heritage January 2005 (PCGS CoinFacts #5666). Joseph C. Thomas Collection MS-68 sale. At least one original roll was reportedly preserved by a contemporary collector, making MS coins exceptionally prized.
1913 Philadelphia Barber Quarter obverse showing Liberty portrait with detail of headband lettering in EF condition

1913 Philadelphia — The Semi-Key "Sleeper"

BEST KEPT SECRET
$40 – $25,300+

With a Philadelphia mintage of just 484,000 business-strike coins, the 1913 no-mint-mark Barber Quarter is historically the lowest annual production total from the Philadelphia Mint in many decades. Because it carries no mint mark and was often lumped with higher-mintage "common" years by early collectors, it was systematically overlooked and spent — leaving fewer survivors than its raw mintage implies.

Numismatists sometimes call the 1913-P a "sleeper" because it is notably scarce in Mint State yet priced far below the 1913-S. Examples in MS-64 and above are genuinely difficult to locate. Strike quality varies considerably — look for weakness above the temple on the obverse and on the eagle's left claw on the reverse. The finest certified examples show bold, well-struck details throughout.

The PCGS auction record of $25,300 was set by an MS-67 example at Heritage Auctions in July 2005, confirming premium demand for top-pop coins. In circulated grades, the 1913-P is worth a meaningful premium over silver melt, often double to triple the value of a similarly worn 1913-D.

How to spot it
Check the reverse just above QUARTER DOLLAR below the eagle's tail feathers — the space should be empty (no letter). Confirm the 1913 date on the obverse. Under a 5× loupe, examine hair detail above the forehead and the eagle's left claw for strike quality clues.
Mint mark
No mint mark (Philadelphia) — the space below the eagle's tail feathers is completely blank.
Notable
PCGS auction record: $25,300 for MS-67 at Heritage Auctions, July 2005 (PCGS CoinFacts #5664). Survival estimate of ~2,000 in all grades per PCGS, with only ~60 estimated in MS-65 or better, making gem specimens genuinely condition-rare.
Close-up of 1913-D Barber Quarter D mint mark showing potential repunched mint mark doubling under magnification

1913-D Repunched Mint Mark (RPM)

MOST VALUABLE ERROR
$50 – $400+

During the Barber series, mint marks were punched individually into working dies by hand — a process that sometimes resulted in the letter being entered more than once or at a slightly different angle before being correctly seated. On the 1913-D, examples exist where the D mint mark shows a secondary ghosted impression just above, below, or to one side of the primary punch, visible as a shadow or partial second "D" under magnification.

To identify an RPM on the 1913-D, use a 10× or stronger loupe and examine the edges and interior curves of the "D" mint mark closely. A true RPM will show a second raised impression of the D's curve or straight edge in a consistent, fixed location — not a random scratch or die chip. The metal flow around both marks will be consistent, differentiating genuine RPMs from post-mint damage.

Premiums for RPM examples on the 1913-D are modest compared to the key-date 1913-S but can meaningfully improve a circulated coin's value. PCGS and NGC do not currently list an officially attributed RPM for this date in their major variety databases, so collector premiums are driven by the open market and individual eye appeal of the example.

How to spot it
Under a 10× loupe, look for a secondary raised arc or vertical line adjacent to the primary "D" mint mark on the reverse. The ghost impression will be above, below, or rotated from the final D. Check that the metal flow around both marks is consistent with striking, not post-mint tooling.
Mint mark
D (Denver only) — RPM varieties apply only to the Denver issue where the D was hand-punched into the working die.
Notable
No formally designated variety number (CONECA or PCGS FS-) exists for 1913-D RPMs in current published resources. Market premiums of $30–$200 over standard value are observed for clear RPM examples; strongest demand comes from Barber Quarter variety specialists who collect "die state" progression sets.
1913 Barber Quarter with off-center strike error showing partial design and full date visible

Off-Center Strike & Broadstrike Errors

RAREST ERROR TYPE
$100 – $350+

Off-center strikes occur when the planchet is not properly seated beneath the dies at the moment of striking. On Barber Quarter planchets, even a 20% off-center shift creates a dramatically visible misalignment — part of the design is absent from the coin's edge while a broad crescent of unstruck blank planchet metal is exposed on the opposite side. Broadstrikes result when the retaining collar is missing at strike, allowing the coin to spread outward beyond its normal 24.3mm diameter.

For any off-center 1913 quarter, the most critical factor determining value is whether the full date "1913" remains visible and sharp on the obverse. Without a legible date, premiums drop significantly. On examples where 40–90% of the design is off-center but the date reads clearly, eye appeal is extraordinary and collector demand is strongest. Broadstruck examples typically retain the complete design but show the flattening and spreading of the design elements at the coin's edge.

These error types exist on all three 1913 mint issues — Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco — though 1913-S error coins are almost theoretical in rarity given the base mintage of 40,000. No specific 1913-dated off-center strikes have appeared in recent documented public auction records, but analogous Barber Quarter errors from adjacent dates provide the valuation baseline cited here.

How to spot it
Look for a crescent-shaped blank area on one side of the coin where the design is missing, while the opposite side has design elements crowded toward the edge. On a broadstrike, the coin diameter exceeds 24.3mm and the reeded edge is weak or absent. Always check if "1913" is legible under a loupe.
Mint mark
All mint issues (P, D, or S) — but D is most likely to surface given its higher base mintage of 1,450,800.
Notable
Per public market estimates cross-referenced with Barber series error sales (coins-value.com, November 2025 data), 20–40% off-center strikes fetch $100–$200; 40–90% off-center pieces with full date visible reach $250–$350+. An on-a-1913-S, any error coin would command extraordinary specialist premiums.

Think you've spotted one of these errors? Run your coin through the value calculator above — select your mint mark and condition, then check the relevant error box to see how it affects your estimated value.

Calculate Error Value →

📊 1913 Quarter Value Chart at a Glance

The table below summarizes estimated current retail values across all 1913 Barber Quarter issues and key condition grades. For a complete step-by-step 1913 quarter identification walkthrough with full photographic references for every grade, see this detailed Barber quarter identification guide. Values are based on NGC and PCGS price guide data (2025–2026 edition); always confirm high-value coins with a certified grading service.

Issue Worn (G-4) Fine (F-12) EF-40 MS-60 MS-63 MS-65
1913 Philadelphia $40 – $50 $100 – $155 $315 – $510 $650 – $940 $700 – $1,140 $3,500 – $7,500
1913-D Denver $16 – $25 $38 – $65 $101 – $135 $390 – $400 $600 – $700 $1,200 – $7,500
🔑 1913-S San Francisco $1,200 – $2,000 $4,500 – $7,500 $10,000 – $12,000 $15,900 – $16,000 $20,575 – $23,500 $27,850 – $35,000
1913 Proof (PR-63) ~$800 (PR-63) · $20,000+ (PR-68 CAM)

★ Signature variety row highlighted in gold. Values are approximate retail ranges; actual realized prices vary based on strike quality, surface preservation, and eye appeal. The 1913-S MS-68 record sale of $172,500 is not reflected in the MS-65 cell above — that grade is above MS-65 and represents the single finest certified example.

📱 CoinKnow lets you photograph your 1913 quarter and instantly cross-reference it against certified sale data to verify your value estimate — a coin identifier and value app.

🏭 1913 Quarter Mintage & Survival Data

Group of 1913 Barber Quarters showing Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco mint issues side by side
Issue Mint Business Strike Mintage Proof Mintage Rarity Context
1913 Philadelphia 484,000 613 Semi-key; lowest Phila. annual total in series
1913-D Denver 1,450,800 Most common 1913 issue; Gem examples scarce
1913-S San Francisco 40,000 KEY DATE — lowest mintage 20th-c. U.S. silver coin
Total 1913 Business Strikes 1,974,800 613 One of the lowest annual totals of the Barber era
Composition specifications: All 1913 Barber Quarters are struck in 90% silver / 10% copper. Weight: 6.25 grams. Diameter: 24.3 mm. Actual Silver Weight (ASW): 0.18084 troy ounces. Designer: Charles E. Barber (Chief Engraver, U.S. Mint). Edge: reeded. At current silver prices, the melt floor for any 1913 Barber Quarter is approximately $8–$14 — but all issues command numismatic premiums well above this floor.

🔎 How to Grade Your 1913 Barber Quarter

1913 Barber Quarter grading strip showing four condition tiers from Good through Uncirculated Mint State
Worn — Good (G-4) to Very Good (VG-8)

The coin is heavily circulated. On the obverse, LIBERTY on the headband may show 0–4 letters clearly. The portrait rim is complete but interior design details — hair strands, laurel leaves — are largely flat. On the reverse, the eagle's feathers are smooth with little separation. The rim is full but may be slightly soft in spots. Even in this state, the 1913-S is worth over $1,200 and the 1913 Philadelphia commands $40–$50.

Circulated — Fine (F-12) to EF-40

In Fine (F-12), all letters in LIBERTY are clear and the headband is visible. By Extremely Fine (EF-40), the hair above the forehead begins to show separation and the headband is fully raised with only light wear on its highest surface. On the reverse, the eagle's feathers are separated to nearly their tips. Look for weakness on the eagle's left claw — Denver issues are routinely struck soft here, which can be misread as wear in circulated grades.

Uncirculated — MS-60 to MS-63

No wear on any high point, but contact marks and light bag marks are present from handling during mint production and storage. The mint luster — a cartwheel-like reflective sheen — must be intact across the entire coin's surface. Disruption of luster at any high point (the hair above the temple, the eagle's neck) indicates wear and drops the coin out of Mint State entirely. These grades are the entry point for substantial collector premiums on all three 1913 issues.

Gem — MS-65 and Above

Gem examples combine full, satiny mint luster with only minimal, non-distracting contact marks and a well-struck strike throughout. On the obverse, all hair strands and laurel leaf veins should be distinct; on the reverse, every feather barb should separate cleanly. A pro tip: look for strike designation differences — Philadelphia-minted examples tend to be better struck than Denver pieces, so a gem-quality 1913-P with full breast feathers on the eagle is particularly prized and should be considered for PCGS Star or CAC designation.

Pro tip: Because no luster should be disturbed on any Mint State coin, always use a strong single-point light source (like a LED penlight) held at a 45° angle when checking for wear. Rotate the coin slowly under the light — true mint luster produces a moving cartwheel effect, while wear appears as a flat, dull patch that does not move with the light source.

🔍 CoinKnow can match your coin's photo against graded reference examples to help you pinpoint the right condition tier before submitting to a grading service — a coin identifier and value app.

💰 Where to Sell Your Valuable 1913 Barber Quarter

Choosing the right venue can mean the difference of hundreds — or thousands — of dollars, especially for key-date 1913-S examples.

🏛️ Heritage Auctions / Stack's Bowers

For any 1913-S or a high-grade 1913 Philadelphia example, major auction houses are the best venue. Heritage has set the record sales for 1913-S coins. These platforms attract the deep-pocketed specialist collectors who drive competition and push prices to true market highs. Seller's commissions are typically 10–15%, but competitive bidding often more than offsets this fee for key-date coins.

🛒 eBay

eBay reaches the broadest buyer pool and works well for 1913-D and mid-grade 1913-P examples. Check the recently sold prices for 1913 Barber quarters on eBay to see current real-market results before setting your price. Always use Buy It Now with Best Offer for circulated examples and auction format for anything in MS-63 or better to maximize competitive interest.

🏪 Local Coin Shop (LCS)

A reputable local dealer offers immediate cash and no shipping risk — useful for common 1913-D coins worth $25–$150. Expect offers at 50–70% of retail for lower-grade pieces, as dealers must factor in their own resale margin and carrying costs. For anything rarer than the 1913-D, get at least two independent dealer opinions before accepting an offer.

💬 Reddit r/Coins + CoinTalk

Community forums are excellent for getting free identification help and preliminary valuation opinions before committing to a sale. Post clear photos of both sides (obverse and reverse) plus a close-up of the mint mark area. The Barber Coinage collectors' community is active and knowledgeable. For selling, r/CoinSales allows direct collector-to-collector transactions without dealer margins.

💡 Get it graded first: For any coin you believe to be a 1913-S, or any 1913 quarter in Mint State condition, professional authentication and grading by PCGS or NGC before selling is strongly recommended. A certified example in a tamper-evident holder commands significantly more than a raw coin — buyers pay the premium gladly for the authentication guarantee, especially on a key date where counterfeits exist.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions — 1913 Quarter Value

What is a 1913 quarter worth?

Value depends entirely on the mint mark and grade. The 1913-D (Denver) is the most common and worth around $16–$25 in Good condition and up to $7,500 in top Mint State grades. The 1913 Philadelphia issue ranges from roughly $40 in Good to over $20,000 in gem condition. The 1913-S (San Francisco) is a key date worth at least $1,200 even in heavily worn condition, and over $35,000 in Mint State-65.

How do I identify the mint mark on a 1913 Barber Quarter?

Flip the coin to the reverse (eagle side). Look just above the text 'QUARTER DOLLAR' and below the eagle's tail feathers. A 'D' means Denver, an 'S' means San Francisco. No letter at all means Philadelphia. The mint mark on Barber Quarters is quite small, so use a 5× to 10× loupe for clear identification. This single step is the most important thing you can do before estimating value.

Why is the 1913-S quarter so valuable?

The 1913-S Barber Quarter had a mintage of just 40,000 pieces — the lowest of any regular-issue 20th-century U.S. silver coin. Most were spent in circulation and melted down, leaving very few survivors today. It ranks as one of the 'Big Three' rarities of the entire Barber Quarter series (1892–1916), alongside the 1896-S and 1901-S. Even in well-worn Good-4 grade, specimens sell for over $1,200.

What is the record auction price for a 1913 quarter?

The all-time auction record for a 1913 Barber Quarter is $172,500, achieved by a PCGS MS-68 graded 1913-S specimen sold at Heritage Auctions in January 2005. For the Philadelphia issue, the record is $25,300 for an MS-67 example sold at Heritage Auctions in July 2005. These top-pop examples are exceedingly rare; most collectors will encounter coins worth far less than these figures.

How many 1913 quarters were made?

Three mints struck quarters in 1913. Philadelphia produced 484,000 business strikes plus 613 proof coins. Denver produced 1,450,800 pieces, making it the most common 1913 quarter. San Francisco produced only 40,000 pieces. The combined business-strike mintage of approximately 1,974,800 is among the lowest annual totals for the entire Barber Quarter series, making all 1913 issues scarce relative to other years.

What does a 1913 Barber Quarter look like?

The obverse features a right-facing portrait of Liberty wearing a laurel wreath and a Phrygian cap, designed by Chief Engraver Charles E. Barber. The word LIBERTY appears on the headband. Thirteen stars surround the portrait and the date appears at the bottom. The reverse shows an American heraldic eagle with a shield on its breast, arrows in one talon and an olive branch in the other, with E PLURIBUS UNUM on a ribbon above. The coin is 90% silver, 10% copper, 24.3mm in diameter, and weighs 6.25 grams.

Are there any valuable errors on 1913 quarters?

No major die varieties (doubled dies, overdates) are officially attributed for any 1913 Barber Quarter. The 1913-D can show repunched mint mark (RPM) variants where the D was punched twice, visible as a shadow or doubling under magnification. Die cracks — raised jagged lines on the coin's surface — occur on some strikes. Off-center strikes, broadstrikes, and lamination errors exist and add a modest premium; off-center pieces with the full date visible can fetch $250–$350 or more.

Should I clean my 1913 Barber Quarter?

Never clean a 1913 Barber Quarter. Cleaning — whether with polish, baking soda, or even just rubbing — removes the original mint luster and patina that experienced collectors and grading services look for. A cleaned coin will be designated 'details' by PCGS or NGC, dramatically reducing its value and marketability. Original, uncleaned surfaces, even if toned or spotted, are always preferred by the numismatic market over an artificially brightened coin.

How do I grade a 1913 Barber Quarter at home?

Check the obverse headband first: in Good (G-4) the letters in LIBERTY are barely visible; in Fine (F-12) all letters are clear; in Extremely Fine (EF-40) the headband is fully raised with light wear on the hair above the forehead. On the reverse, count the defined eagle feathers — Good shows smooth feathers, EF shows nearly all defined. Full mint luster with no wear at all = Mint State. Denver and some Philadelphia strikes are often weakly struck; don't mistake a soft strike for wear.

Where is the best place to sell a valuable 1913-S quarter?

For key-date specimens worth over $500, professional auction houses like Heritage Auctions or Stack's Bowers will maximize your return through competitive bidding from serious collectors. For certified (PCGS or NGC graded) examples, GreatCollections is another strong option with lower buyer's fees. If your coin is raw (ungraded), getting it authenticated and graded first is strongly recommended — a genuine 1913-S in a certified holder commands significantly more than an unverified raw coin.

Ready to find out what your 1913 quarter is worth?

Use the free calculator above to get a value estimate in under 30 seconds — no sign-up, no email required.

Check My 1913 Quarter Value →